Jan 7
Salzburg, Austria
A beautiful, magical city that inspires and delights with its quaint streets, stunning architecture and breathtaking views. Not to mention the beautiful sound of the various bells and organs that sing throughout the day. We spent three days in Salzburg and even though it rained for a lot of it, we still kept busy.
*This article was written in summer 2016
Day 1
We arrived here on a Wednesday evening after a long drive through every conceivable tunnel known to man from Slovenia to Salzburg. We had just missed the rain as the ground was soaked and the air had that crisp, fresh smell. We arrived at our accommodation (Airbnb, of course) and were greeted by Helen and her lovely daughter, who showed us around and gave us wonderful restaurant tips. We stayed just south of the city centre, taking 10 minutes to walk in. This top floor apartment is stunning, with an almost 360 degree window view of tree tops and mountains. We have been spoiled!
We headed out that evening in search of dinner. One of our recommendations was Zum Zirkelwirt, a charming traditional Austrian pub with good wholesome food. The food was so good, we were to eat here twice before leaving Austria. In fact, I could eat it again right now.
Day 2
*As I am writing this paragraph, it is 0900am and the rain is pouring from the sky. No wind, just loud pitter patter on the roof. I’m sitting in the living room with my coffee, enjoying the peacefulness that comes with being safe inside. This is my definition of contentment.
We decided to brace the weather and head out to make the most of the city, rain or shine.
The number one observation I made in Salzburg are the proximity of cyclists to your person. I swear by the end of my trip there I was on heightened alert, primed and ready to jump at the sound of a bell.
They’re everywhere! Great complaint mind you. More cyclists = less cars = clean air.
I had the most wonderful evening. Dinner in Zum Fidelen Affen (The Jolly Monkey Tavern), which I highly recommend. The food is delicious and the staff are hilarious. Relaxed pub atmosphere with high quality service and food.
Unassuming to us, more events were to infold as we started walking home and the rain poured from the heavens. We hid under cover of the entrance steps to Shrimp’s Bar & Restaurant and did not expect what happened next. A staff member opened the door and offered us to come inside and hide from the rain. We felt a little embarrassed as we were on our way home from the restaurant and didn’t have any interest in another excursion. He was so welcoming, so we obliged. Water, interesting liquor, tequila and an hour later, we left in a fit of giggles. We had the most wonderful time, chatting to the bar staff, sharing stories and trying out digestifs. There are two bars in the city owned by Shrimp’s — Darwin’s and Monkeys — and the cocktails come highly recommended in Darwin’s. I wanted to try them, however we ran out of time to fit it in our schedule, so please if you visit Salzburg, try a cocktail in Darwin’s and let me know!
Day 3
The sun has finally made an appearance! And wow, how even more beautiful can Salzburg get? I bet it’s magical in the winter time. Got in a HIIT workout this morning before we head out and make the most of the day.
I headed out to make the Residenz Platz for 1100am to hear the song of the Salzburger Glockenspielbells. The sun was out in full glory which made the water spray from the fountain glow. From there we walked through old town, full of little shops with the most gorgeous shop front signs towards the river.
We crossed over the Markatsteg bridge with “love locks” littered all over it (I’m not a fan of these — if you love someone, just tell them!). At the end of the bridge we came across the sweetest man selling paintings he makes of the city. They were stunning and we had to snap one up each. I complimented him on his work and his reply was “good school”. Humble.
Continuing up the road from the bridge, we came across Mozart’s place of residence (Mozart Wohnhaus). There is a museum and cafe inside with a cute tea garden, so we decided to kill two birds with one stone and enjoy a coffee in the garden where Mozart once spent time in (or maybe not, he was probably inside composing). I had a healthy apple, carrot and ginger fresh juice accompanied by an apple strudel (balanced diet right?). Prices weren’t expensive considering where were were eating.
Mirabell Gardens are a stone’s throw from Mozart Wohnhaus and with the sun still holding strong, we strolled over to enjoy the stunning manicured gardens and play in Sound of Music dreams as you will recognise from ‘Do Re Mi‘. We may or may not have enjoyed pretending to be Julie Andrews. Even sang the song on the steps with some other tourists for the fun.
From Mirabell we headed back across the river to find the lift that takes you up the mountain to M32 restaurant. A restaurant with a view for sure! Also another film location from Sound of Music. We began our walk around to the castle from here.
We arrive at Hohensalzburg Fortress for 5pm, as we wanted to be present when the ‘Salzburg Bull‘ play at 6pm. The ‘Bull’ is a huge mechanical organ built in 1502. It chimes 2 minutes after the bells at Residenzplatz and it’s been said the song is in response to the bells. A full ticket in to the Fortress is €11.50 per adult (unless you storm it I guess). This includes entrance fees to the state rooms and a trip on the funicular (my new favourite word). We rushed our trip as the space closed at 7pm so I would allow 3 hours to walk around if you are a history buff.
I never seen panoramic views like I did from the tower at Hohensalzburg. If you visit nothing else in the castle and only the top of the tower, it’s worth your money. I am so glad we went in the evening as it was quiet and we got to enjoy the symphony of bells in the square below.
Salzburg really was the magical city I imagined it to be. She was beautiful in the rain as well as the sun. I can only imagine how she looks in the snow. I hope to return very soon one day and highly recommend a visit to this wonderful place. With all the tower and church bells songs, she really does sing to the sound of music!
